It's a lovely drive from the Ayrshire coast to Kirkcudbright, even in the rain: you drive up the Doon valley into the hills, then follow the Water of Ken down again. The signs insist that it's the tourist route to Gretna, but you don't have to go there, you can just admire the scenery, soft green hills and silver water, trees dotted about for decoration, and plenty of sheep. At the top, just after the border, there's a herd of Belties, belted Galloway cows, to make it quite clear that you are now in Dumfries & Galloway: and we sighted another example of the road sign bearing the conventional 'Beware of cattle' image, edited by painting a broad white band across the midriff of the silhouette of the cow, so that it now conveys the message 'Beware of Belties'. (Previously spotted on
last Sunday's Magical Mystery Satnav Tour.)*
We stopped in St John's Town of Dalry for lunch at the Clachan Inn. The quirky décor maybe goes a bit over the top - there's nothin wrong with any of it, in fact it's all fun, but there is just so much... But the food was terrific. We have a booking for this evening, so we couldn't do it justice, but they let us sit in the bar and order a starter from the menu: three juicy scallops in a nest of squid ink risotto, on a layer of creamed cauliflower (and a glass of dry cider). They don't open on Monday or Tuesday, or I'd be plotting to return.
When we reached Kirkcudbright, the on-again-off-again rain was on: rather than come straight to our hotel, we called in at
the Galleries. I wanted to see their temporary exhibition, Andy Goldsworthy's 'Winter Harvest', but was a bit disappointed in it: I knew the title described some of his early work, but had hoped for some sort of context. Always a pleasure to look at the pictures, though. A floor down, we looked into
Creative Legacies - William Hanna Clarke and Alison Kinnaird MBE because it was there, but with, if anything, a faint hostility (I'm opposed to heredity on principle). I knew nothing about either of them, and was very struck by some of
Alison Kinnaird's glass pieces. Not everything: some finely engraved botanical images were beautifully done but - well, fiddly. But a war memorial, an architectural triptych and something you could call a self-portrait:
made a great impact, and while the lighting obviously helps, the use of light is part of the artwork, so that doesn't count against it. The piece shown is
Red List, and depicts crafts which are on the Red List of Endangered Crafts, of which wheel-engraving is one (others pictured include Shetland lace knitting, wooden flute making and glass eye making). So I have learned something today.
*ETA: Leaving Kirkcudbright on our way home, I spotted another modified cow road sign; and shortly after it, a modified deer - at full gallop, fine set of antlers, white midriff. Local artist getting carried away?
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