shewhomust: (Default)
Two days of hiding from the weather, mostly: Wednesday on Yell was grey and windy, yesterday on Unst was grey and wet. Today was brighter, and this makes more difference than I ever imagine, but even the grey days are not as depressing as they sound.

A whistle-stop tour of the north of Yell took us to the Gloup memorial, erected for the centenary of the disastrous storm in 1881 in which ten fishing boats and 58 lives were lost. Now it seems unbelievable that so many people could ever have lived here, but even at the height of the herring boom, it must have been devastating. Our next stop was at the point where a path led down to the golden sands of Breckon. We were tempted, and followed it far enough to admire the view - which also exposed us to the wind, and we retreated. I took the opportunity to admire the abandoned farm:

Bright stripes


For the full Shetland scene, you'd need to be able to see the sheep, which is hidden by the corner of the shed: but I know it's there, which is the main thing.

Further adventures )
shewhomust: (bibendum)
Yesterday's Plan A was that if the morning was fine, we would island-hop north to Unst. Since it was raining gently but steadily, we did something else instead.

Something else... )
shewhomust: (bibendum)
It rained overnight, and we thought it would carry on for the next couple of days, but this morning was dry if not, at first, bright, and we decided to risk a short walk. The road that had brought us to Varda runs out past the next farm, where a kink in the long sea inlet called the Whale Firth creates a small beach. This looked promising on the map, but when we got to the end of the road, we were less tempted by the scramble down to the beach than by a grassy lane that ran along the hillside:

The Whale Firth


That's the view looking back, north along the Whale Firth: beyond the stacks at the end is the Atlantic. Cut for length, and pictures )

This was enough excitement for one day. We called at the shop in Mid Yell to buy some milk, we decided that Shetland's most haunted house could wait, we had a late lunch and a quiet afternoon with books.
shewhomust: (bibendum)
Despite warnings of bad weather, that we were running just ahead of both wind and rain, we had a very comfortable crossing. I'm glad A. had warned us that the on board restaurant is no more, because the self-service option is more fuss and less relaxing. Despite which, we enjoyed our steak and chips, and were amused by the raspberry sorbet, which had been kept too chilled for too long, so that you could get a spoon into it, and had to pick up each scoop in turn and nibble it (this was worth doing). After dinner we relaxed with a book each and watched the summer sunlight gradually disappear:

Travelling hopefully


We sailed into Lerwick this morning in dazzling sunshine, but by the time we had disembarked it was overcast and grey, and the hills of Bressay over the water wore a shawl of cloud. The wind is getting up, too. [personal profile] durham_rambler keeps up with the news from home, and reports that rain has been heavy enough to cause cancellation of Durham regatta, and the new Seaham food festival. So who knows what the coming days will bring? But we had an easy crossing, and we have packed plenty of books.

We spent the morning in Lerwick, trying to shop, with mixed results. We are self-catering, and I was hoping for shops which would allow us to stock up on local produce: [personal profile] cmcmck will know what I mean if I say I hoped for the equivalent of Argo's Bakery, but didn't find it. But [personal profile] durham_rambler managed to get his watch strap replaced, and when we gave in and went to the Co-op, we found not only bread from a Shetland bakery, but also a copy of today's Guardian - and it was only just midday!

Lunch was scallops and chips for me, mussels for him, at Frankie's in Brae, Britain's most northerly fish and chip shop (but then Shetland is littered with Britain's most northerly this, that and the other). I am not persuaded that battering and deep-frying is the best way to cook scallops: they were good, and it was worth a try, but I've done that now. Then north again, to the drive-on ferry that brought us to Yell, to Varda, the converted church which is our home for the coming week.

We have started to unpack, and we are beginning to find things. Once I had put in the fridge those things which needed to be refrigerated, my next task was to make a pot of tea, and I had packed, as a holiday treat, a pack of loose tea which was part of our birthday gift from the GirlBear. Much to my surprise, I couldn't find a teapot - or a tea strainer, come to that - and have had to use the cafetiere. The tea doesn't taste noticeably of coffee, so I'd call that a result. Meanwhile, [personal profile] durham_rambler is on a mission to get the television to work. The owner is aware of the problem, and is waiting for someone to come out from Mainland, but [personal profile] durham_rambler is not discouraged. And I think it's about time I joined him in the rather nice sitting room upstairs, with its splendid views ...

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