shewhomust: (bibendum)
David at the Creel takes a justified pride in his breakfasts, but this morning's was exceptional - and not just because we were honoured with inspection by the cat. The first course was crème de marrons de l'Ardèche topped with crème fraîche - not something I think of as a breakfast dish, but which I could happily eat at any hour of day or night (I feel about marrons the way some people feel about chocolate...). This was followed by bubble and squeak flambéed in Laphroig - a mixture of green vegetables ("Not leftovers!" David was very firm about this, though I have no problem with leftovers, especially if they can be induced to bubble and to squeak), sautéed potatoes and bacon. The bread, William told us, came from Westray. It was perfectly good granary sliced, but apparently special because bread from Westray only comes to Mainland once a week.

By now I had been in Orkney 36 hours, and not once been offered a bere bannock. I was beginning to wonder why, and this seemed an opportunity to ask. William seemed surprised: evidently he doesn't think of bannocks as central to Orcadian produce, but he thought that there was still one baker making them, at Harray. I've always bought them from Argo's bakery in Stromness, but this meant nothing to him.

It turns out that Argo's now have a branch in Kirkwall, where I bought one bere-meal and one wheaten bannock as part of our supplies for our self-catering stay on Rousay. Also a pair of runic socks from Judith Glue. And [personal profile] durham_rambler picked up a copy of the Folk Festival programme, and is trying to work out whether we can get to anything on Sunday, when we return to Mainland. Then we drove round to Tingwall, for the Rousay ferry.

While we waited, we checked the internet for directions to our cottage: 41 minutes, it told us, "mainly flat." I'm trying to upload the picture which shows why we found this so funny, but the internet is having one of its funny spells, so perhaps I'd better not wait, but try instead to see whether I can upload this.

ETA to illustrate what's funny about that "mainly flat":

Tingwall pier
shewhomust: (Default)
Yesterday was dreich. It started well enough. On our way to the restaurant on the previous evening, we had chosen a road we hadn't previously explored, and discovered the answer to my question: Nice town, Cromarty. But where do the residents go shopping? Here on one side of the road were the bakery and the Post Office; facing them, the supermarket and a very superior cheese emporium, housed in the old Police Station. So before leaving town we called in to buy some cheese. Their extensive collection included both Scottish and Dutch cheeses, but we agreed with the (almost certainly Dutch) lady who served us that the Dutch cheeses would travel better...

It goes downhill from there )

Anyway, that was yesterday, in Scotland. Today we are in Orkney, and the weather is brighter, even sunny at times, and dry. Windy, of course - as I said, we are in Orkney.

The Tomb of the Otters )

Scapa


The distillery tour )

Photography wasn't allowed on the tour, for reasons I didn't find entirely convincing, but we could,and did, take photos outside. Approaching the distillery from the north brings you through a cluster of dark, drab warehouses and industrial buildings, but from the sea - and from the coastal path - you are greeted by a gleaming wall, next to which there now stands a large wooden megaphone, of which my picture shows only the edge:

Edited 08.06.2018 to insert photo:

Megaphone


And that was today.

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