Last night was bitterly cold (it was -3°C, which is nothing by the standards of places with serious winters, but quite cold enough for me); today is milder, there's a constant sound of dripping and the occasional rush as snow falls off a roof. It may not be the start of a real thaw, and even if it is, it could take a long time. But I've finished sorting another batch of photographs from our summer holiday, which is an excuse to think about summer sun, and the day we spent in Vicenza.
Vicenza was the home (though not the birthplace) of Andrea Palladio; it is rich in Palladian architecture and the nearest city to the Villa Saraceno. If we were going to do any city sightseeing at all, Vicenza was the place to do it, in one day of intensive city-exploring, architecture-admiring, sun-defying tourism. It may have been a tactical error to begin with the best thing:
The
Teatro Olimpico was designed by Palladio but not completed until after his death. The trompe l'oeuil scenery was constructed for the first performance in 1585:
durham_rambler and I kept repeating to each other "1585!" Before the Globe Theatre was built, with all its strange archaic features, Vicenza had this modern- (well, maybe Victorian-) looking theatre. Of course, they used it to stage classical drama, while the Globe was performing completely new plays which would change the theatre forever, but even so...
Our ticket for the Theatre included entry to the art gallery, but this was much less impressive. The picture of which they seemed proudest in the first gallery as you came in: you looked up and there on the ceiling above your head was
a very revealing view of Phaeton losing control of his father's chariot, surrounded by the signs of the zodiac. We should have opted out there and then, but we persevered through the saints and the still lifes, and emerged ready for lunch, and a sit down somewhere shady while we ate it. It was pleasant simply to wander the streets, to admire the Palladian architecture and the medieval survivals, the shuttered windows and the brightly painted walls, to consider whether we wanted to eat at this wine bar or that pizzeria (pizza alla Vicentina, apparently, is topped with cod) but eventually we stumbled, almost at random, into a little café:
where we lunched in the back room behind the counter: I had vitello tonnato, which I had previously read about
in the writing of Elizabeth David but never eaten.
This refreshed us enough to explore some more sunstruck squares and shady arcades, and we found the Tourist Office where I bought a book about wine tourism in the region which would have been very useful earlier in the week. We retrieved the car, planning to visit the Villa Rotunda (another Palladian villa), but by the time we had found our way out of the city (twice round a one way system, and then the long way round a circuit of the city walls - hey, it's a walled city and we never noticed!) and done some very awkward manoeuvres in a narrow lane, trying to park, we lost our tempers. When we did eventually find a parking place, we walked straight past the entrance to the Villa and up the hill, past the Villa Valmarana (known as 'ai Nani', the dwarfs, because of
the figures which top its walls and up to the basilica at the top of the hill, where there is a spectacular view over Vicenza and to the mountains beyond, and a café which serves cold beer in tall glasses, which restored our tempers admirably, and left us feeling that we'd made the right decision.
All the pictures of Vicenza