shewhomust: (Default)
If we had had any sense, we'd have turned for home - maybe not from Hiersac, once we'd stocked up on wine, but certainly when we had slithered into Angoulême along a road on which snow was settling, despite it being a major road. We should have turned for home then and there, while we could. But we were here for the festival, dammit, we thought we'd go to the festival, and we thought that would give the gritters time to get out, and make the roads passable again.

And I wanted to hear Enki Bilal )

The snow had continued to fall while we were in the subterranean lecture hall, and there was no sign of any attempt to clear it, or to grit the roads. The positive side of this was that the parking permit displayed on our windscreen, on which the period we had paid for had run out well before our return, was invisible under several inches of snow.

Other than that, it was bad news. We inched home over ice, taking nearly three hours to cover a distance that usually took less than one. It didn't seem like an exceptional fall of snow - France is a continental country, after all, surely they are accustomed to extremes of weather? And the traffic wasn't heavy, we weren't stuck behind abandoned cars (one of the major hasards in Britain). We couldn't quite work out whether the lack of reaction to the snow was because it was trivial, mundane, nothing to get excited about, or whether the roads were left untreated because it was so exceptional that there were no snow ploughs. A bunch of kids in the village of Petit Giget not only lacked the sense to keep well clear of the cars careening through on the icy road, but were actually throwing snowballs at them - they surely would not have survived into their teens if this were a regular occurrence? It was only after we were safely home that [livejournal.com profile] durham_rambler told me about the downhill where he had realised that he had the wheels locked hard right, and the car was still going straight ahead.

The following morning, Sunday, we abandoned any thought of going back into town, and took ourselves instead for a walk up the lane, across the fields to the neighbouring village of Bonnes. The snow was thick, soft and dry, a pleasure to walk through, not at all slippery. In the village, the café was open, and served us coffee, but apologised that the kitchen was closed: all their bookings for Sunday lunch had cancelled. It seemed disproportionate, a different world to the previous night's journey.

Another day on, and the snow was vanishing fast. On Monday we walked into Aubeterre along the Dronne, pursued by a pair of swans. We left the house in mist almost resolving into rain, but it cleared gradually, and by the time we climbed up the hill on which Aubeterre is perched, it was an effort in the warm sun. We walked home removing our jumpers, glad of a cool breeze, pausing to say bonjour to the man pruning his vines.
shewhomust: (bibendum)
On the Saturday of our stay in France, we drove up to Angoulême cross-country, in pursuit of wine. You are never far from habitation in the Charente, and the landscape is curvaceous, all small hills and and winding roads, so that the perspective constantly offers fresh glimpses of hilltop villages, a farm sloping down the side of the valley, here a perfect miniature chateau which might have been built from Lego, there a high walled enclosure, behind whose arched gates there lives a propsperous viticulteur.

It is intensely cultivated country, though in winter it is hard to guess what will be grown in the ploughed fields. Occasionally there's a field of stalks which are identifiable as maize, a few cows wandering in a patch of woodland, once a couple of sheep in someone's garden, a flock of lapwings grazing peacefully in a field, their quiffs profiled clearly against the grass or the sky, and every now and then a few rows of vines.

As we came closer to Cognac, the vineyards became larger and more frequent. The plantings were of all ages: a couple of rows of new baby grafts still in their protective tubes, a gathering of spindly young vines like gangling adolescents, draping their shoots along the wires, gnarled old vines hunkered low to the ground - and the variety was increased by the different choices that had been made about the pruning.

Segonzac proclaimed itself the Capital of the Fine Champagne - not the main town of cognac production, which is Cognac itself, but the main town of the finest area for cognac. There was an entire still displayed on a gable end at the entry to the town, to reinforce the message. But the Maison des Maines, whose wine we had enjoyed with our lunch a few days earlier was closed. So we drove on to Hiersac, where the Cave Co-op had been recommended by our friend Helen. And by the time we found the Cave, the snow was setting in seriously.

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