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We waited in the plane as darkness fell, then took off into a red sunset and flew over a countryside wearing black silk embroidered with gold sequins. As we flew northwards it grew lighter, until there was daylight above the clouds, and then sea below them. Our first real sight of Iceland was of a low expanse of black - what? There was nothng to give any sense of scale, but it could have been rocks, or treacle, with a pale scum (or maybe lichen) floating on top. (Turned out to be lava, and moss so thick it looked as if it had been oured on from a jug, but I would never have guessed that).
We landed at Keflavik by daylight, with a low sun lighting fires behind all the windows of the terminal building. The shuttle from the hotel drove us through the twilight to the Northern Lights hotel, past the sculpture of an egg from Bosch's Garden of Earthy Delights, through verges which - after that first sight - were astonishingly green, and thick with drifts of blue flowers: could they possibly be lupins?