shewhomust | Changeable weather

We took a loop away from the motorway to pass Eiffel's viaduct at Garabit, hoping to find a café for a sandwich lunch. After walking out of two smart roadside restaurants - the first because although the bar was large and empty, they declined to serve us sandwiches there, saying "You can have a meal in the restaurant", the second because they were so busy serving a coach party that no-one would even notice our presence - we pulled in, without great hopes, at the Beau Site, which was even smarter, right next to the viaduct, all lounge-bar piano muzak and orchids. And were received with great charm, given a window table with a panoramic view, and served an omelet and a glass of wine (and coffee with a home-made chocolate to follow).

And returned to the motorway feeling very pleased with ourselves. The morning had been showery, but the sky darkened while we were at lunch and the road south was dramatic. To the left, the Margeride plateau veils of rain fell from sombre clouds; to the right were sunny wooded hillsides. Later, in the Aubrac, this was reversed, and we drove through the rain, looking out at the blue skies beyond.

By the time we reached Nasbinals, the sun was shining, and we booked into the hotel - we were given room 12b, which is (of course) between room 12 and room 14 - and went for a walk.

We had walked through this area years ago, when we first set off on the Pilgrim Way, and one of the things I had wanted from this holiday was to spend more time walking in the hills of the Lozere, tawny curves criss-crossed by dry stone walls, grazed by cattle, and spiked with yellow gentians. The waymarked blue route took us on a five mile circuit between upland fields, along the edge of the forest, through sharp showers alternating with golden evening sun, while a brisk wind chased cloud-shadows over the hillsides.

So I was not altogether surprised, the following morning, when