We now have a hired car, and are continuing on our itinerary, but things are still a bit unresolved, and there's quite a lot of telephoning, which is tedious...

As for the hotel (Hotel Doña Mayor, Fromista (http://www.hoteldonamayor.com/)), judge for yourself:

(http://www.flickr.com/photos/she_who_must/6208352526/)